Well, actually onion squash was used here. But any squash or pumpkin you like to eat is fine. A warm evening mouthful to comfort one during difficult times, or a great lunch for two in happier days.

• Ingredients: one smallish squash or several pieces of pumpkin. One large onion, two tomatoes, a small glass of white wine, about 100g risotto rice (any type is fine), two Tbsp or so of good olive oil, a sprinkle of saffron strands, ground black pepper and salt.

• Alternative ingredients: Any pumpkin or squash you like to eat, shallots, butter instead of half the oil, if not using wine then maybe vegetable stock. Any preferred cheese.

• Method: Cut the squash up and roast it in an oiled casserole dish in a medium oven until cooked. While this is happening, add a couple of tablespoonfuls of oil or butter to a 20 cm thick bottomed pan. Thinly slice the onion and add it to the oil, leave it on low until the onion is melting. Stir in the rice (do not overfill the pan as the rice will eventually swell up considerably). Let the rice sizzle slightly in the pan, stirring to keep it from sticking. When the grains are very slightly toasty looking, sprinkle in the saffron, then immediately stir in the white wine and let the rice bubble and seethe. Now add half the pumpkin – scooped out of its skin – and the chopped tomatoes. When the mix starts to look dry, add a scoop of water and continue stirring and adding a little water until the rice is nearly soft. Then add the rest of the pumpkin. As soon as the rice is ready, stir in 50-100g parmesan shavings. Keep stirring for a minute, then check the seasoning, and eat. Served here with shards of toast spread with butter and salty black olives.