Beetroot are sweet and earthy. Once I thought that they were red, but this is not so. They may be pink or creamy, little or big. They absorb flavour and make rich soups and crisp pickles. They are a perfect ingredient in a vegan goulash. But to my way of thinking they are perhaps at their most appealing in a cold weather salad. And to this version, I have added an English goat’s cheese.